Black Forest

The Black Forest (Schwarzwald) in south-west Germany is one of the most scenic and varied regions in Europe — and despite the dark image its name suggests (which simply comes from the dense conifers that block out the light), it is a vast expanse of rounded green hills, clear lakes, villages that look lifted from the Brothers Grimm, and a rich culinary culture. To really understand it, split it into three parts, each with a completely different character. The south is the wild heart and the lakes — the highest, most mountainous area: Titisee is a resort town on the shore of a lake, with a lively promenade of cuckoo-clock shops and cafés (this is where you eat a real slice of Black Forest gâteau); Schluchsee is the region’s largest lake, quieter and wilder; Feldberg is the highest peak (1,493 m), a hiking paradise in summer and a ski resort in winter; and Todtnau is famous for its waterfalls and its long alpine coaster. The centre is cuckoo clocks and tradition — the rural Germany of old: Triberg is the world capital of cuckoo clocks and also home to Germany’s highest waterfalls; Gengenbach and Schiltach are architectural gems of half-timbered (Fachwerk) houses that look like a film set, and Gengenbach’s town hall turns into a giant Advent calendar every December. The north is the spa, luxury and alpine views: Baden-Baden is a historic bath town that has drawn Europe’s aristocracy since the nineteenth century, with grand Roman baths, a casino and manicured gardens; and Freudenstadt is known for the largest market square in Germany and its exceptionally clean air. And you cannot leave out the neighbours to the west — the French region of Alsace, just across the Rhine: stunning Colmar with its “La Petite Venise” quarter, canals and colourful timber houses, and the Alsace Wine Route, a string of vineyard-wrapped villages (Riquewihr, Eguisheim) pouring superb Riesling and Gewürztraminer. And a practical tip: if you are in the area for more than two or three days, look for a stay that provides the Hochschwarzwald Card — handed out free by hundreds of hotels in the south, it gives free entry or discounts to dozens of attractions, cable cars and water parks.

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