Black Forest

The Black Forest (Schwarzwald) in south-west Germany is one of the most scenic and varied regions in Europe — and despite the dark image its name suggests (which simply comes from the dense conifers that block out the light), it is a vast expanse of rounded green hills, clear lakes, villages that look lifted from the Brothers Grimm, and a rich culinary culture. To really understand it, split it into three parts, each with a completely different character. The south is the wild heart and the lakes — the highest, most mountainous area: Titisee is a resort town on the shore of a lake, with a lively promenade of cuckoo-clock shops and cafés (this is where you eat a real slice of Black Forest gâteau); Schluchsee is the region’s largest lake, quieter and wilder; Feldberg is the highest peak (1,493 m), a hiking paradise in summer and a ski resort in winter; and Todtnau is famous for its waterfalls and its long alpine coaster. The centre is cuckoo clocks and tradition — the rural Germany of old: Triberg is the world capital of cuckoo clocks and also home to Germany’s highest waterfalls; Gengenbach and Schiltach are architectural gems of half-timbered (Fachwerk) houses that look like a film set, and Gengenbach’s town hall turns into a giant Advent calendar every December. The north is the spa, luxury and alpine views: Baden-Baden is a historic bath town that has drawn Europe’s aristocracy since the nineteenth century, with grand Roman baths, a casino and manicured gardens; and Freudenstadt is known for the largest market square in Germany and its exceptionally clean air. And you cannot leave out the neighbours to the west — the French region of Alsace, just across the Rhine: stunning Colmar with its “La Petite Venise” quarter, canals and colourful timber houses, and the Alsace Wine Route, a string of vineyard-wrapped villages (Riquewihr, Eguisheim) pouring superb Riesling and Gewürztraminer. And a practical tip: if you are in the area for more than two or three days, look for a stay that provides the Hochschwarzwald Card — handed out free by hundreds of hotels in the south, it gives free entry or discounts to dozens of attractions, cable cars and water parks.

Best For

Where to Stay

Hotels Sherry Recommends