Koh Samui

On Koh Samui the magic is in the balance between tropical indulgence and total freedom, and to feel the island like a local it helps to know a few secrets. First, don't miss the night markets — not just food but a whole energy: wander the stalls at Lamai or Fisherman’s Village, taste satay skewers, tropical fruit you've never seen and fresh cocktails, with none of the resort formality. Lovers of a view should head up to the Jungle Club — the road is a little challenging (take a local taxi if you're not confident on a scooter), but the terrace overlooking the whole bay is worth every moment, whether for a morning coffee or a sunset beer above the world. Anyone craving quiet away from the busy beaches will find a gem on the island's south side (Taling Ngam) — far more unspoiled, with peaceful beaches where you simply lie in a hammock, read a book and watch the sun sink into the sea with no noise around; and while you're there, add a visit to the Na Muang waterfall, especially the upper fall, its water cool and refreshing exactly after a day in the sun. In the end, Koh Samui is the perfect place to blend "doing nothing" with "discovering something new" — the secret is not trying to fit everything in: one day for the beaches, one day for a jungle trek, and one day — the most important tip of all — simply getting lost on the island's inner roads, where, among the coconut palms and small villages, the real magic of Thailand hides.

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